Installing a new kitchen faucet can refresh your sink area and improve functionality. While the task involves plumbing, it is manageable for most DIYers with the right tools and patience. Our editorial team compared specifications, buyer feedback and key decision factors to compile this step-by-step guide. Follow these instructions carefully to avoid leaks and ensure a secure fit.
Tools and Preparation
Before starting, gather the necessary tools and materials. Having everything ready will make the installation smoother and prevent mid-project trips to the hardware store.
- Adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers (two are helpful for holding nuts)
- Basin wrench (for reaching nuts in tight spaces under the sink)
- Plumber's putty or silicone caulk (silicone is better for granite or solid surface sinks)
- Teflon tape (thread seal tape) for threaded connections
- Bucket and towels to catch drips and spills
- Flashlight or work light to illuminate under-sink area
- Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead)
- Allen wrench set (often included with faucet for set screws)
- New supply lines (braided stainless steel, 3/8 inch compression to 1/2 inch NPSM common)
- Safety glasses and gloves to protect from debris and sharp edges
- Penetrating oil (like WD-40) for stubborn nuts
- Putty knife and rubbing alcohol for cleaning old sealant
Turn off the water supply under the sink by closing the shutoff valves (turn clockwise). If there are no shutoff valves, turn off the main water supply for the house. Open the faucet to relieve pressure and drain any remaining water. Place a bucket under the sink to catch drips. Also, put a towel down to protect the cabinet floor.
Remove the Old Faucet
Removing the old faucet is often the trickiest part due to limited space and potential corrosion. Follow these steps carefully.
- Disconnect water supply lines. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts connecting the supply lines to the shutoff valves. Have a towel ready for drips. If the nuts are stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.
- Disconnect the sprayer hose (if applicable). Unscrew the nut connecting the sprayer hose to the faucet body. Some sprayers have a quick-connect fitting; press the release button to detach.
- Loosen the mounting nuts. Use a basin wrench to reach the nuts holding the faucet to the sink deck. Turn counterclockwise. If the nuts are stuck, apply penetrating oil and let it soak. For extremely stubborn nuts, you may need to cut them off with a hacksaw or oscillating multi-tool. Be careful not to damage the sink.
- Remove the faucet. Lift the old faucet out from above. Clean the sink surface of old putty or caulk with a putty knife and rubbing alcohol. Ensure the area is clean and dry before installing the new faucet.
Common pitfall: If the mounting nuts are rusted or seized, you may need to cut them off with a hacksaw or oscillating tool. Proceed with caution to avoid damaging the sink. Also, if the old faucet has a deck plate, remove it as well.
Install the New Faucet
Now it's time to mount your new faucet. Read the manufacturer's instructions first, as some details vary by model (e.g., number of holes, mounting system).
- Prepare the faucet base. Apply a thin bead of plumber's putty or silicone caulk around the base opening on the sink deck. For stainless steel sinks, plumber's putty is fine; for granite or solid surface, use silicone to avoid staining. Roll the putty into a snake and press it around the hole.
- Insert the faucet. Feed the supply lines and any hoses through the mounting hole. Position the faucet base on the putty or caulk. Press down gently to create a seal.
- Secure the faucet from below. From under the sink, slide the mounting plate (if included) and tighten the mounting nuts by hand, then snug with a basin wrench. Do not overtighten, as this can crack the sink deck or strip threads. Typically, a quarter turn past hand-tight is sufficient.
- Attach the sprayer (if separate). Connect the sprayer hose to the faucet body and secure with the nut. Feed the hose through the sprayer hole and snap the sprayer head into place. Ensure the hose is not kinked.
Common pitfall: For faucets with a deck plate (escutcheon), ensure the plate sits flush against the sink. If the sink surface is uneven, use extra silicone caulk to seal gaps. Also, if your sink has four holes but your faucet uses three, you may need to install a deck plate to cover the unused hole.
Connect Water Lines and Test
Connecting the water lines is the final step before testing for leaks. Use new supply lines for best results.
- Wrap Teflon tape. Apply Teflon tape clockwise around the threads of the shutoff valves and the faucet inlet threads (if not using compression fittings). Use 3-4 wraps. For compression fittings, Teflon tape is not needed; instead, ensure the ferrule is properly seated.
- Connect supply lines to faucet. Attach the supply lines to the faucet inlets and hand-tighten. Then use a wrench to tighten an additional quarter turn. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the O-rings or threads.
- Connect to shutoff valves. Attach the other ends of the supply lines to the shutoff valves. Tighten securely with a wrench, but again avoid overtightening.
- Turn on water supply. Slowly open the shutoff valves (turn counterclockwise). Check for leaks at all connections. Tighten if necessary. If a leak persists at a compression fitting, you may need to replace the ferrule or call a plumber.
- Flush the faucet. Run both hot and cold water for a minute to clear any debris from the lines. Check the sprayer and diverter function. For pull-down faucets, ensure the hose retracts fully and the weight is positioned correctly.
Common pitfall: If you have a pull-down or pull-out faucet, ensure the weight (counterweight) is properly positioned on the hose for smooth retraction. Adjust if needed. Also, check that the sprayer hose does not get caught on anything under the sink.
Troubleshooting Tips
Even with careful installation, issues can arise. Here are common problems and solutions:
- Leak at the base of the faucet: This usually means the putty or caulk seal is insufficient. Remove the faucet, clean the area, and reapply a fresh bead. Ensure the mounting nuts are snug.
- Leak at supply line connections: Tighten the nuts slightly. If still leaking, disassemble and check for damaged O-rings or cross-threading. Replace supply lines if needed.
- Low water pressure: Check that the shutoff valves are fully open. Also, ensure the supply lines are not kinked and the faucet aerator is not clogged. Remove the aerator and clean it if necessary.
- Sprayer does not retract: The weight may be in the wrong position. Slide it closer to the faucet body. Also, ensure the hose is not tangled or caught on other items under the sink.
- Faucet wobbles: Tighten the mounting nuts further. If the sink deck is uneven, use a thin shim or additional silicone to stabilize.
After installation, wipe down the sink area and enjoy your new faucet. If you encounter persistent leaks or difficulty, consult a professional plumber.